“I’d make a Denim Tears T-shirt with a picture of my mom, and sell her cake recipe that only my little brother knows.” The label has since developed a distinct USP: “I do all this art and iconography and symbols, and transfer them to menswear silhouettes to help tell the story of the African diaspora.The Barcelona is a contemporary four bedroom semi-detached home designed over three floors, perfect for growing families. From 2016, Emory would sell T-shirts and donate the proceeds to Maternal Health charity Every Mother Counts in memory of his own mother, who passed away in 2015. Tremaine Emory, Acyde Odunlami and Virgil Abloh at London Fashion Week, 2017 © Nick Harvey/Shutterstockĭenim Tears X Converse Air Hammons 70 HI, $125ĭenim Tears started as a moniker based on an inside joke with Abloh and the music executive Caius Pawson – they were making fun of a pair of ripped jeans Emory had worn. And then mostly stuff that’s out of your control.” It’s about how you treat people, and your work ethic, and luck. “Everything’s connected and nothing’s a plan. Later, Emory would serve as creative consultant to Ye too. It’s there that Emory would cultivate the network he would become famous for, with Abloh, future creative director of Off-White and Louis Vuitton, bringing Frank Ocean along for a nightcap, or the then-West coming by to play a demo of his album Yeezus. After moving to London, he started hosting club nights alongside his creative partner, Acyde, with whom he runs No Vacancy Inn. Joining Marc Jacobs was a much happier experience: he started as a “stock boy” in 2006, eventually graduating to sales associate in 2010. He dropped out of college and moved into retail, which was a natural fit, although an early dispute with an employer about his hair first left him keen to stay behind the scenes (“I guess, in hindsight, I was kind of scarred”). This capacity to work around the clock would serve him well. It’s about how you treat people, and your work ethic, and luck He chose a liberal-arts major at LaGuardia Community College but, keen to keep his loans down, also worked at FedEx. “I would go to school in the day, come home for like a couple of hours, eat, sleep, and then head to load the trucks all night.”Įverything’s connected and nothing’s a plan. Tremaine Emory (left) and DJ Acyde at the No Vacancy Gospel Party, Los Angeles, 2017 © Randy Shropshire/Getty Images for Saint LuisĮmory grew up with “adventurous, intelligent” parents in Queens he reels off Andy Warhol, James Baldwin and his family’s own video shop as early sources of inspiration. “It’s just a story for the ages.”Įmory: ‘I do art and iconography, and transfer them to menswear silhouettes to help tell the story of the African diaspora’ © Cali Dewitt “To become the creative director 25 years later…” he sighs. “I was probably the first black kid in Jamaica, Queens, wearing Supreme in 1999,” says Emory, who is in his early forties. The founder of the cult clothing brand Denim Tears and one half of the nightlife and fashion duo No Vacancy Inn, he has already worked with several of his generation’s leading creatives, including the late Virgil Abloh and the former Kanye West, now known as Ye. Instead, I receive a forensic unpicking of the serendipity, community and talent that took him from the stockroom of Marc Jacobs to being described as a “cultural lightning rod”. The New Yorker has just flown in from London, where he’s been taking meetings in his new role as creative director of streetwear juggernaut Supreme, and will soon be on a plane again to LA. Tremaine Emory rearranges his Zoom screen before easing himself into his chair and yawning.
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